The good news is that Victoria Falls is beautiful and the bad news is that no photograph can ever do it justice.
Paul and I first saw Victoria Falls in 2016 in January after the summer rains and it was roaring and massive. This time it was a bit more subdued, but certainly no less gorgeous. We have only seen the Zambian side from the air, but have witnessed the Zimbabwe side where the falls originate from the Zambesi River from both the ground (as seen above) and from the sky via helicopter.
 |
| Bird's eye view of Vic Falls. Note the width of the Zambesi River which cascades over basalt formations about 350 ft high. |
While it is neither the highest nor the widest waterfall in the world, Victoria Falls is classified as the largest, based on its combined width of 1,708 metres (5,604 ft =just over a mile) and height of 108 metres (354 ft), resulting in the world's largest sheet of falling water. Victoria Falls is roughly twice the height of Niagara Falls and well over twice the width of its Horseshoe Falls. In height and width, Victoria Falls is rivalled only by Argentina and Brazil's Iguazu Falls. Paul and I were fortunate enough to witness Iguazu two months ago and if you look back a few posts, you will see our experience there.
 |
| The entire flow of the mightly Zambesi River exits over these basalt walls. To the far left of this photo is the famed initation point known as Devil's Cataract |
Local tribes used to perform sacrificial ceremonies and when the missionaries arrived in the area they referred to these ceremonies as “devilish” and hence the name given to this cataract. I think it looks pretty heavenly myself.
If you do decide to go to see the Falls, I recommend either side but Zimbabwe side is more guaranteed to have the highest water flow. Also recommended is the walk along the opposite rim for close in viewing, for appreciating the sound it makes and for feeling spray on your face. Sometimes, you even need a raincoat!
 |
| The incredibly dry African landscape that surrounds the Zambesi. |
And if there is anyway at all to afford it, take the helicopter ride for an even greater appreciation of the Zambesi river, the gorge that makes the falls and a better understanding of how the river is a life saving feature of the landscape.
 |
| Victoria falls Bridge connects Zimbabwe and Zambia across the gorge. The Zambesi River is the dividing line for the two countries. |
 |
| The shadow of the bridge near sunset across the desolate basalt cliffs in winter. |
The bridge was the brainchild of Cecil Rhodes, part of his grand and unfulfilled Cape to Cairo railway scheme, even though he never visited the falls and died before construction of the bridge began. Rhodes is recorded as instructing the engineers to "build the bridge across the Zambezi where the trains, as they pass, will catch the spray of the Falls". It ended up getting built a bit further down than in Rhodes dream, but is still quite beautiful if not a "spray" experience. It was designed by George Andrew Hobson of consultants Sir Douglas Fox and Partners, assisted by the stress calculations of Ralph Freeman, who was later the principal designer of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. The main central arch is a parabolic curve.
The bridge was prefabricated in England by the Cleveland Bridge & Engineering Company, before being shipped to the Mozambique port of Beira and then transported on the newly constructed railway to the Victoria Falls. It took just 14 months to construct and was completed in 1905.
The bridge under construction in 1905.
Constructed from steel, the bridge is 198 metres (650 ft) long, with a main arch spanning 156.50 metres (513.5 ft), at a height of 128 metres (420 ft) above the lower water mark of the river in the gorge below. It carries a road, railway and footway. The bridge is the only rail link between Zambia and Zimbabwe and one of only three road links.
Paul and I always say we are going to walk over the bridge but we haven't yet managed to obtain the proper advanced Zambian visa. Next time?
Besides seeing the falls from two different perspectives, another interesting thing to do is actually get on the Zambesi and take a float trip. There are boats of all sizes and shapes, including dinner cruises and whitewater rafting. It is pleasant to do this at sunset. Hippos are nearly always seen and you might get lucky enough to see some other wildlife on the banks as well.
 |
| Take your pick of size and shape of boats for a Zambesi River sunset cruise |
 |
| Neighborhood elephant getting his snootful on the Zambesi |
 |
| Cape buffalo |
 |
| The whole reason for the Zambesi River Cruise |
 |
| If you prefer an airplane running on a lawnmower motor, or even skydiving, bungee jumping or you name it, somebody is probably selling the experience in, on or above the Zambesi. |
To top off all these lovely and memorable experiences at the Falls, Paul and I had dinner at the Victoria Falls Hotel in the Livingstone Room. Quite formal and unmistakably a hold over from the British era, the atmosphere was nice, the decor classic and the food and wine first class.
I do also want to give a call out to the lodge where we stayed in the residential neighborhood of Victoria Falls, Phezulu Lodge. The staff were friendly and helpful, the rooms very nice and they had a healthy breakfast.
 |
| Phezulu Lodge |
 |
| Yes! They have diet Coke! |
 |
| Our room. AC included. Appreciated the moski nets as well. |
The most impactful place that I've been to where I was just completely awestruck, happy, moved is Victoria Falls between Zambia and Zimbabwe. It is probably the most beautiful and romantic place in the world.
— Hill Harper
 |
| Pirate of the Zambesi |
Paul's Ponderings: This was our second visit to the Vic Falls area and we kind of repeated some of the things we did the last time, but to no less enjoyment....helicopter ride, boat cruise, and, of course, the falls. Having been at Iqauzu recently, this was pretty fun to compare....totally different vibe. The Phezulu Lodge was pretty great and felt low key and local, but was also nice and I'd recommend it totally.
And who knew about dining at the Victoria Falls Hotel? Certainly not us until now. Pretty cool old school British charm with great food.
We found out on the way out that they'd opened a new upscale airport recently and we got the pleasure of flying back to Johannesburg on a pretty new Airbus with our hosts on South African Air. Sort of the cherry on the cake I guess.
Not sure when or if we'll be back this way, but give it a go if you get the chance.....
No comments:
Post a Comment