. "I think of my own life, how it embraces a great quest to know every cog of nature--the names of oaks and ferns, the secret lives of birds, the taste of venison and Ogeechee lime, wax myrtle's smell and rattlesnake's, the contour of bobcat tracks, the number of barred owl cackles, the feel of Okefenokee Swamp water on my skin under a blistering sun. I search for a vital knowledge of the land that my father could not teach me, as he was not taught, and guidance to know and honor it, as he was not guided, as if this will shield me from the errancies of the mind, or bring me back from that dark territory should I happen to wander there. I search as if there were peace to be found."
Janisse Ray
Janisse Ray
In south Georgia lies the Okefenochee Swamp. Home to 25,000 alligators, an enormous number of wading waterfowl (including sandhill cranes) and moss covered trees.
When I was in grades 2-5, my family lived in Warner Robins, Georgia. Not exactly the swamp land... but in the summer, I was sent to Bible camp in Valdosta, Georgia which is very near the Okefenochee Swamp. On the ride down with my church buddies, we would hear tell about the gators getting the grannies, etc and although I remember being a little frightened at the stories, I wanted to see this haunting place. Now nearly 55+/- years later. I am finally getting the opportunity.
The Okefenochee is the largest blackwater swamp in the USA and comprises about 438,000 acres. As with many words of native American origin, there are many tales about how it got it's name, but it probably comes from Hitchiti words for "bubbling waters." The St Mary's River which flows out to the Golden Isles area of Georgia and the Suwanee River (of Stephen Foster fame) both originate in the swamp.
While we were touring the swamp in a boat with a national park naturalist, I noted the canal we were on looked awfully straight to be a product of nature and postulated it was the result of the Army Corp of Engineers. But he said it was dug by the Suwanee Canal Company who purchased the land and intended to drain the swamp. That venture went poorly and after the bankruptcy (which seems to have been environmental as well as financial), the Hebard family of Phildelphia purchased it and conducted a cypress logging operation until the late 1920s. Eventually, the swamplands were acquired as a National Wildlife Refuge.
In addition to the wildlife in the park, which is aplenty, the park maintains an old homestead of the Chesser family. The original Chesser family raised seven children on this modest property. This homestead reminded me a lot of my grandparent's farm in south Alabama--they pretty much grew everything they lived on and had chicken coops, gardens, smokehouses, woodshops, pigpens--you name it! The Chesser Island
Homestead is deemed eligible for
National Register listing.
This 19th to early 20th
century farmhouse is
located deep in the
swamp and was home to several
generations. Its ability to
survive the wet swamp
conditions serves as a
reminder of the hardy swampers who once
lived there. These
structures and this world famous swamp offer
many opportunities
education and heritage tourism.
The house still stands despite being built in the late 1800s. There are numerous useful outbuildings that kept the family supplied with their needs.
I'm sure whichever generation got this screened in water pump and a tub were pretty ecstatic!
Paul with his new binoculars prepares to sight wildlife.
We saw seven alligators total on a fairly chilly day. This guy was about 12 feet long. He was not overly enamored with our visitation.
For anyone considering a venture to this very beautiful area, be aware that it is pretty remote. Access to groceries, lodging, internet and even cell phone service is sketchy. The closest towns are Folkston, Georgia which has a couple of restaurants and a mom and pop type hotel. We found a couple of airbnbs--pretty basic-- were available, but we opted to stay in the Stephen Foster State Park cabins near Fargo, Georgia. We never ventured all the way to Fargo, so cannot tell you what is there other than a gas station and mini-mart according to Googlemaps. The state park had no internet/cell phone service, but it was very comfortable, they provided linens and kitchen equipment, and there was a TV. We saw a very large alligator right on the side of the dock immediately upon arrival and were greeted by deer in our yard. It's worth the trouble to get there and spend some time unplugged with Mother Nature. Also, it is notable that it is an hour's ride back to the National Wildlife Refuge from the state park, and the state park ALSO conducts wildlife tours (but not private ones which might be a consideration for some during COVID. ) We are told the best time to visit is March and April. But we can attest that January isn't bad. Summer is hot and buggy.
Lie on the bridge and watch the water flowing past. Or run, or wade through the swamp in your red boots. Or roll yourself up and listen to the rain falling on the roof. It's very easy to enjoy yourself.------------------- Tove Jansson
Paul's Ponderings: This was an interesting day....we stayed in a rural state park and it was a bit of a drive on a VERY rural but well-paved highway circling the swamp over to have a boat ride and a walkabout. Thankfully it was sunny and pleasant! The photos here tell the tale of the day, more or less. The swamp, no surprise, is pretty shallow and we skimmed around in a boat with a guide. Lots of birds native to the area were spotted and, of course, alligators. The latter seemed to care less about us than we did about them! The plant life is interesting and certainly not the same as East Tennessee. Definitely worth a trip, although maybe not a week unless you are really into this sort of sightseeing. Another one off the bucket list!
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