April 18,2022: Belated 10th Anniversary Tour (thanks Covid) to Northern New Mexico. FIRST STOP FARMINGTON

 “When I got to New Mexico that was mine. As soon as I saw it that was my country. I’d never seen anything like it before, but it fitted to me exactly. It’s something that’s in the air – it’s different. The sky is different, the wind is different.”  ---Georgia O'Keefe

This story really begins 8 or 9 years ago when we were driving to Taos and we passed a sign that said, Ojo Caliente. Paul didn't speak much Spanish at the time beyond Gracias and enchilada, so I told him it meant "warm eye." We looked it up and found that it was a natural hot springs with a spa. We kept passing the sign and eventually resolved to go there, but in winter or early spring, as New Mexico gets a bit hot for warm baths later in the year. Fast forward to February 2019, shortly before the pandemic put travel to a halt. We made our reservations, packed our bags, and set off from Albuquerque late in the afternoon to see and experience Ojo Caliente...only to encounter a humdinger of a snowstorm that prevented our progress any further than Santa Fe, and that only with difficulty. The next day, the main highway was cleared of snow, but secondary roads were not. We went South instead. 

We missed it then. And now that travel is opening up, we thought Ojo Caliente deserved a second attempt. And as long as we were in the area, the Four Corners area has some pretty fascinating features worth tapping into. 

The trip to the area in itself is an interesting journey into history and geography. Highway 550 passes numerous historical spots on the way to our goal of Farmington as a base: Coronado and Jemez Historic sites, the Navajo reservation and many small nondescript towns there since the 1800s or even longer. 

The journey takes place at 5000+ feet and passes through multicolored mesas and washes. Much of it is dry and scrubby and gets only 3-4 inches of rain per year. 

Lake Farmington

    On our way in to our Airbnb casita rental, we decided to take a nice walk and circumnavigate Lake Farmington, a 250 acre lake serving as recreation for quite a few families this Easter. It's a popular spot for fishing, kayaking and picnicking. The path was just about 4 miles total and didn't have any extremes of elevation, but it was quite pretty. Wildlife was confined to snakes, ducks and children going nuts next to the water :) 

     From here, we went to our Airbnb. It's small but comfortable and all we need when most of our time will be spent outdoors exploring. 

I'm a sucker for an Airbnb with a GAS stove and attached laundry!

     We got a good night's sleep and then we were off to make the most of TAX DAY and also International Juggling Day!

     We started at Aztec Ruins National Monument.

     The name is a misnomer, as there were NO AZTEC ruins here. But they were built by ancient Puebloan peoples between the 12th and 13th centuries. They were occupied for about 200 years and then the ancient peoples, who believed they exited from the navel of the earth to perform a journey, continued their pilgrimage onward. Much of this ancient pueblo was restored by the work of archeologist, Earl Morris shortly after the turn of the 20th century. The park has a 0.5 mile paved path around partially excavated structures built by a conglomeration of Native American nations and that probably served commercial, religious and ceremonial purposes.

A look at the site which houses numerous buildings made of wood and stone. Wood was carried for more than 20 miles and stones were quarried from about 3-5 miles away by Puebloan peoples without any modern transport.

A look at the structures, the plaza and the Great Kiva (more on that later.)

There was internal ventilation and connecting doors. There were many rooms and although and they weren't believed to originally be intended as residences, it appears they were eventually used as living space. 

A look at the beautiful stone work. There is a ribbon of green stones that run at a single level of the building. Roof support is via logs and dendrochronology has been used to date the structures. 

    It's hard to get a photo that does this ancient place justice. Morris and archeologists reconstructed the Great Kiva they found on the grounds in the center of the plaza and it gives insight into the ceremonial lives of the ancient Puebloans whose ancestors still believe the Aztec Ruins are a sacred place. They say the ancients did NOT desert the structures and that they still move among them.

The reconstructed Great Kiva. You can see the plaza beyond and some of the other buildings.

Entrance to the Kiva. Morris tried to reproduce the paint colors he saw on the premises.

The inside of the Kiva. There is a place for a ceremonial fire. 

The roof is well constructed with ventilation. 

This area which is on a dais above the kiva floor has undetermined purpose.

     The modern tribes of Hopi, Zuni, Acoma, Zia and Navajo are descendants of the Puebloan ancestors. They still hold ceremonies here. The site was abandoned by all but the spirits of these people about 900 years ago for unknown reasons---possibly drought, as they farmed the land at the nearby Animas River. There is great information at the Visitor Center as well as some artifacts from the site, helpful rangers, a short film about the site, souvenirs and brochures. The visitor center is the former home of archeologist, Earl Morris.

This is one of a very nice pottery exhibits in the visitor center.

We had fun watching prairie dogs on the grounds. 

Yep. The sky was very Georgia O'Keefe above the Aztec Ruins.

There is a walk from the Visitor Center across the Animas River. At one time you could walk into the town of Aztec, but at the moment, they are improving the walkway and the downtown isn't accessible. 

     For birdwatchers, we did get to see and hear white-crowned sparrows flitting about the juniper and scrubs. 

    From here, what else but a trip to The Four Corners Monument, the only location in the USA where four states come together in one spot. It is located on the Navajo nation and operated by Native Americans. The entrance fee is $5 per person. There's not much there, but there are some small food stands and souvenir booths in addition to the novelty of this unique geographic phenomenon and its marker. There are some hiking trails for the more adventurous amongst us!

Looking off into Utah. The Horse Tail hiking trail bisects this photo.

The view into Colorado

Paul standing pretty much in New Mexico, Utah, Colorado and Arizona at the same time. 

The entrance to Four Corners Monument

     

     On the way to the monument, you can't help but notice all the mesas in different colors and the dips and washes, native American villages and horses roaming around the brush. You also can't miss Shiprock. There is a town of the same name, but the rock itself rises stark out of an even starker landscape and attracts the eye for many miles. 

Shiprock rises out of the landscape like a cathedral or a fairy castle. It's hard to keep your eyes off of it.

     Our last act of a long but fun and interesting day was a walk along the Animas river. We saw many duck species, Canada goose and an All Wars Veteran's Memorial. The locals use it for recreation: walks, biking and picnics. 

Paul on a bridge across the Animas River. Three Rivers meet in Farmington: Animas, LaPlata and the San Juan.

Duck prints.

The Animas River at nearly sunset.

   There is an oil well in the Animas River recreation park. We learned while driving and from this park exhibit that this area of New Mexico is very rich in oil and gas fields with over 110,000 wells currently in service. 

    If you are traveling this way, we recommend a stop in Farmington, particularly the Aztec Ruins. And for great New Mexico cuisine, the Chili Pod downtown is totally worth your time. 

"Chili is not so much food as a state of mind. Addictions to it are formed early in life and the victims never recover." -------Margaret Cousins

Paul's Ponderings:  Fantastic day out in New Mexico.  Despite having spent tons of time out here over the past 20+ years, I've never been to Farmington or these ruins near here.   The weather today was incredible, starting cool and ending very warm. (From 38 to 83 degrees Fahrenheit!) The Puebloan ruins are amazing, particularly the Grand Kiva....the photos don't do it justice and we had it to ourselves, which was really great.  We ate lunch and dinner both at the Chili Pod, which was outstanding Mexican food.....superb red and green sauce and wonderful fresh food.  We had some lovely walks in the area.....so basically hard to beat this day.   Much more to come.