Friday, August 25, 2023

August 25, 2023: Gottwieg Abbey near Krems

 




My imagination is a monastery and I am its monk.---- John Keats


Krems, as it's known to its friends, is the gateway to the Wachau (a UNESCO heritage site) and one of the prettiest towns sitting astride the Danube. A region-driven food scene; an intact historical centre; top-quality Grüner Veltliner and riesling whites from local vineyards; and high-calibre museums attract the summer crowds, but the rest of the year things quieten down a notch. Aimless wandering is the way to go, dipping into churches and museums, strolling the banks of the Danube and sampling wines.


And we did....none of that. Although it certainly appealed on paper, we took instead a BUS TRIP to Gottweig Abbey. And we are glad we did!


Aerial view of Gottweig Abbey today

The abbey was established as a Benedictine  monastery in 1083 by the Bishop of Passau and hasn't always been this big or splendorous. Göttweig became a famous seat of learning and strict monastic observance. A monastic school, organized a library, and at the foot of the hill built a nunnery  were established and is where it is believed that Ava, the earliest German language woman poet known by name (d. 1127), lived as an anchorite. The nunnery, which was afterwards transferred to the top of the hill, continued to exist until 1557. The library remains despite a devastating fire and contains documents on parchment dating back to the 5th century. During the 15th and 16th centuries, however, the abbey declined to such an extent that between 1556 and 1564 it had no abbot at all, and in 1564 not a single monk remained. At this crisis, an imperial deputation arrived at Göttweig and elected Michael Herrlich, a monk of Melk Abbey, as abbot. The new abbot, who held his office until 1603, restored the monastery spiritually and financially, and rebuilt it after it had been almost entirely destroyed by fire in 1580.

Shelley enjoys a look down into the Wachau Valley

What she is looking at

One of 30 parishes attended to by the monks who also tend vineyards and the forest. The forest is now the greatest source of income 

It's on the Camino Santiago de Compostelo...only 3000km away. See the shell on the middle sign. 

The cathedral

We had a great guide who showed us the cathedral and the Gothic buildings. There were also areas built by and for the Hapsburgs and you can arrange to stay there. 

The cathedral altar. Lots of gold.

Ceiling of the church

The pipe organ. Really a beatiful place. 

The Hapsburg quarters were particularly decadent. They were sponsors of the abbey, but frequently "ran out of money" during the World Wars to help with restoration projects. That said, the buildings and grounds cost about 2 million dollars annually to maintain in historically preserved state. 

The ceiling of the Hapsburg quarters painted in 45 days by Paul Troger in 1793.  It contains non-Biblical mythological references and King Charles is riding a chariot in the center as if to say, "Well, I am God here, and you have to accept what I say!"

This black flag was flying on our arrival. The guide said it wasn't a tribute to Henry Rollins and his musical talents, but that a monk had died either last night or today. He said the oldest monk was 86 and the youngest 24. They only fly this flag when someone dies. There are only a few monks living here now and the number has vacillated over the years from 0 to 80. 

This was a really beautiful place and so peaceful. It would be easy to understand why someone would want to live here. Maybe not as a monk, but nevertheless, there is plenty of great architecture, history, books and orchards and vineyards galore. 

We got to sample some of their apricots in this dumpling. Shelley and Claudia said it "rang all our Southern bells"

Close up!

The chef who taught the class. Lots more ingredients than I expected. They gave us a printed copy of the recipe.


We saw almost none of Krems on this brief stop along the Danube except for a walk on the river bank. Not very amazingly, we found gelato. Paul found the internet.


We left around noon and sailed for Linz. There are so many charming little towns along the banks as well as churches and vineyards. It's a very scenic boat ride. 

A typical sight

More of the same

No comments:

Post a Comment