Azores: Sao Miguel Island 9/4-9/10

 

Sao Miguel is known as the Green Island

“My dear, I've found 'em!
They're here, every one of these nine Azores. Little islands full of prayers and shrines and vesper chimes, strung on a thread of water, like the decades in the windings of a Rosary of the Sea.”
― Jean Chamblin, Lady Bobs, Her Brother, and I

I don't know exactly when I became aware of the Azores, but probably pretty early on as my dad was in the Air Force and us brats knew there was a airbase here. But beyond that, except for some romantic thoughts about visiting remote-ish islands worldwide, I didn't give them a lot of thought until last year when two things happened: We visited the Algarve and nearly every native said, "Well, if you think this is good, visit the Azores!" In close proximity to this, our friends, the Endersons said, "We're thinking about taking a hiking trip to the Azores in September, and you all might want to join in." Since September is Paul's birthday month, it made a great birthday gift for him. 

A map of the Azores Island., basically in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean

To give you a brief history, the exact date of the discovery of the Atlantic islands is not clear, though historical accounts indicate that the islands of Santa Maria and Sao Miguel were the first to be discovered by navigator Diogo da Silves around 1427. There is significant evidence that Vikings and Amerindians were here at least briefly prior to that, but no written records. The "official" settlement of the archipelago began in Santa Maria, where the first settlement was constructed in the area of Baía dos Anjos (in the north of the island), and quickly moved to the southern coast. Settlers quickly arrived from the provinces of Algarve and Alentejo. In the following centuries settlers from other European countries would arrive, most notably from France and Flanders.

By 1440, other settlements had developed along the river-valleys and coastal inlets of São Miguel, Terceira, Faial, and Pico, supported by game animals and fishing. An abundance of potable water sources, along with fertile volcanic soils, made the islands attractive and easy to colonize, and the growing wheat market supported an export economy (along with various plant species that allowed the development of the dye industry in the colonies).

Christopher Columbus made an unplanned stop on Santa Maria while returning to Spain after his first voyage to America. His ship Niña was forced there by a storm. During the storm, all hands had vowed, if they were spared, to make a pilgrimage to the nearest church of Our Lady wherever they first made land. Anchoring at Santa Maria, the travelers were told by people onshore that a small shrine dedicated to Our Lady was nearby. Columbus sent half the crew ashore to fulfill their vow; he and the rest would go when the first group returned. But while the first crew members were saying their prayers at the shrine, they were taken prisoner by the island's captain, João de Castanheira, ostensibly out of fear that they were pirates. Castanheira commandeered their boat and rowed to Niña with several armed men, in an attempt to arrest Columbus. Columbus did not allow Castanheira to come aboard, and Castanheira announced that he did not believe or care who Columbus said he was, especially if he was indeed from Spain. After two days, Castanheira released the prisoners, having been unable to get confessions from them, and having been unable to capture his real target, Columbus. There are later claims that Columbus was also captured, but this is not backed up by Columbus's log book.

The island of São Miguel was apparently populated by 1444.The colonists spread themselves along the coastline in areas where conditions of accessibility and farming were best. The fertility of the Azores contributed to its population expansion, as the islands were soon exporting wheat to the Portuguese garrison in North Africa and of sugar cane and dyes to Flanders. Later oranges were grown and exported to Britain.  The area was also frequently subjected to pirate attacks.

During these times, Ponta Delgada became the capital. The first capital was Villa Franca do Campo, but when it was destroyed in a massive landslide caused by a powerful earthquake in 1522, Ponta Delgada assumed the position. It became the first city on the island in 1546. It remains the capital today and is the gateway to the Azores. The Azores have approximately 250,000 people, about a quarter of whom live in Ponta Delgada. By comparison, there are 125,000 cows, mostly dairy (producing yummy cheese) and some islands definitely have more cows than people. 

A view across the modern city from our Airbnb

Forte Sao Bras: Once there to protect the harbor, a hospital during WWII and now a military museum

Gates of the city and the main church of Ponta Delgada, Igreja Matriz de Sao Sebastiao

Port area of Punta Delgado. In addition to sailboats, it's a maritime weigh point for container ships and any type of boat. 

There is so much to do on Sao Miguel, but I will start with an overview of what to do in the main city. 

In addition to the above pictured Military Museum in the fort (great to visit to get a look at how the harbor was defended or if you just really like looking at weapons and uniforms), there are two very nice gardens.  One is Antonio Borges (free)  and just a block or two over is Jose do Canto (5 euros at the moment.) Both are easily accessible on foot. These gardens are really pretty and mostly full of exotic trees (from Australia, New Zealand, Japan, North and South American) ... and chickens. There are some flowers about but this is all about the trees. And these two guys look to have been competing with one another as well. Bringing in exotic trees in the 19th and early 20th century was a sign of wealth and altruism and you find exotics all over these islands. Borges was a "gentleman farmer," naturalist and the Governor of the Azores. Do Canto was a "landowner" (euphemism for having wealthy ancestors) and botanist.

Colorful Azorean chickens abound in Borges garden.

Bamboo garden (Roger Carico...this is for you)

Canarian palm tree and so many more in Antonio Borges garden.

do Canto had the biggest tree, a monumental sequoia...as you can see it dwarfing Paul

He also had a nice house on the property

I even think his chicken is bigger. The garden is larger than Borges as well, but they contain many of the same species of trees. 

Another feature in Ponta Delgada are museums. The only one we went to so far is the one in an old convent, Museu Carlos Machado. This one has some art work and also historical pieces as well as a large collection of taxidermy of various animals near and far. It is part of a museum complex that includes a museum of sacred art. 

The chapel of Convento do Santo Andre. The windows are all high so the nuns couldn't look out and the outside couldn't look in.

Taxidermy specimen of a great white shark

There are a few other museums, but we didn't visit them. 

Apparently the best way to approach Sao Miguel is to explore the East or West Side. This would take a car to do it well. There are buses, but it would be challenging. We were on an organized tour, so... we had transport. 

This is the largest island of the Azores measuring 40 miles in length but only 10 miles across.

Our first area of exploration was the Western Side of the Island. 

View back to Ponta Delgada. There is NO END to gorgeous vistas.

En route to the Lake of Fire

Azores are famous for their flowers, particularly hydrangeas in many colors and camelias (not in season). If you want to see the islands in full bloom of everything, come in May. 

We travelled to lake areas today. The first was Lagoa do Fogo--Fire Lake! This was created by volcanic activity about 15,000 years ago. 

Who wants to go to Fire Lake? 

Then it was onto the Lake of Sete Cidades. These crater lakes (the blue one and the green one, as known locally, and attributed to the tears of star-crossed lovers. Of course, one was a princess and the other a pauper....) are in a hilly hiking area with sweeping views.  It can be crowded in tourist season. 

Not sure which lake was created by the princess tears, but they do appear as different colors with the ocean and clouds in the background. 

On the way, we also visit the Nine Windows.

This was an aqueduct of importance during the 17th and 18th century when there was a water shortage in Ponta Delgada.

The water was channeled from a nearby lake, which I could not see. There was only a nearby stream. It has been in somewhat a state of ruin, but there are current efforts to preserve it. 

There was no end to scenery around every corner on the West Side which is probably the most visited area. 

Always something to take a picture of....

Or admire in the distance

And plenty of local wines to get googly-eyed about!

The following day, we were off to the middle and eastern side of Sao Miguel to explore. Probably the most or second most (second most is VERY big here) visited area is Furnas. And if you know the word "furnace," it's a hint about what there is to see: boiling mud pots, fumaroles, smoking ground and hot mineral pools. 

 

There is a local tradition of cooking food in these smoking holes and it does have a smoked and slightly sulphury smell and taste...

Smoking ground

Boiling mud pot

A miniature version of Yellowstone on a rock in the middle of the ocean. 

The meal they served us that was cooked in the smoking ground. 

We did a nice walk around a public park area that contained this amazing NEOGOTHIC church. But it's not open to the public. 

This church was built for the wife of Jose do Canto and is the Senhora do Vitoria (Our Lady of Victory) and was really an offering for her to recover from an illness. 

Unfortunately, that prayer didn't get answered the way Jose wanted it (God said, "No way, Jose!") and do Canto converted this church into a funerary chapel where both he and his wife are interred. Public not allowed. 

Nearby the mini-Yellowstone, is  Parque Terra Nostra which has a public hot mineral springs and a well laid out garden. The garden's inception dates back to 1780, when the then United States Consul on the island of São Miguel, Thomas Hickling, in 1775 built his summer residence here, which later became known as Yankee Hall. He was apparently a bit of a playboy and produced 22 children here in Azores in addition to the ones he left back in the USA. He had to eventually sell the property to a local, but in the meantime, he did also produce a really nice tourist attraction.

The waters were yellowish in color, so don't bring a white swimsuit. It was nonetheless relaxing.

There are multiple areas in the garden including ones devoted to bromeliads and camelias as well as this one featuring Azorean flowers.

Water lily garden. 

Not to be missed on the way, is Cha Gorreana--- a tea plantation since 1883 and the only one in Europe. It has been owned by the same family for 5 generations. Gorreana produces predominantly organic green and black tea, but with "modern tastes" is also delving into other varieties such as mint and jasmine. Currently, Gorreana's plantations cover an area of ​​32 hectares, from which about 40 tons are produced per year. A small part of the production is destined for the Azorean market and the rest is exported to many countries such as mainland Portugal, Germany, USA, Canada, Austria, France, Italy, Brazil, Angola, Japan, among many other countries. You can visit the factory while the tea is being processed and it is lots of fun to watch.

The welcome sign

We had a very nice tea tasting.

The dryer for the tea leaves

These folks are bagging up the tea after it has been processed.

Green tea in large burlap sacks.

These tea plants are harvested by a team of workers who ONLY take the very top three leaves. Some of their tea products are picked through by hand.

The irrigation pond

The levada that brings the water into the tea plantation. 

Last but not least for that day===this is a dessert! It's coconut yogurt with passionfruit sorbet, but looks like====EGGS in a skillet. 

The next morning, we were off for a waterfall hike that ended at a beach. Great views again everywhere!

Every hike has amazing views. 

Paul admiring the coastline

From the water, we hiked into the cornfields

It's not often you see corn growing with an ocean in the background

Morning glory

Finally we reached the Cascadas do Limbo.

We were lucky to be hiking with our Knoxville friends, Blaine and Jean Enderson

This hike ended in Praia Dos Minhos

Our hiking group leader, Tania, decided to dip a toe in the Atlantic. 

We made our way back to Ponta Delgada and Paul and I went whale watching at Villa do Campo, the original capital city of Sao Miguel which was destroyed by earthquake in 1522 after which the capital was moved. This area is best known for Islote Villa do Campo which is a "ring islet." It is home to seabirds nesting. Tour boats cannot go inside the ring, but snorkelers are allowed. There are naturalist hikes but only during some months and NOT September. The islet is close to shore and kayakers enjoy paddling out to it.  Whale watching is also popular in this area of Sao Miguel. 

We were lucky enough to see Sei Whales. This one was lone. They don't jump out of the water like humpbacks but you can see their dorsal fins. 

We saw three sperm whales. A lone juvenile and female with her baby. They usually stay on the surface moving slowly and resting for about half an hour before they dive again to search for squid by echolocation. The mother will hunt food for the baby for about a year. 

An aerial view of Islote Villa do Campo. 

We would encourage people who like to travel and enjoy islands and scenery to travel to Sao Miguel and see the beauty of this island. 

"My bones rattle like a bag of quarters left on a spinning dryer as I roll down a steep dirt hill, the mountain bike’s back-wheel skidding across wet, loose gravel at each touch of the brake. Visibility is limited by the fact that I am, it would appear, in a cloud, a thousand feet above sea level. The slope shows no sign of leveling off; teeth clenched, eyes wide, I careen past two Holstein cows who turn lazily my way, unperturbed by my approach or their perch on what looks like the edge of the world."     ----Sebastian Modak

Paul's Ponderings:  This was our first trip to the Azores and Sao Miguel was a great start.   Ponta Delgada has a lot going on, including restaurants and historical sites.    We had a great Airbnb in the center of town, which is very walkable.   We also spent time out in the rest of the island, which is quite lovely with a lot of great coastline and towns scattered along it, plus some nice hiking in the overall area.   We are used to volcanic islands with great coastline that is not very inhabitable, but Sao Miguel is not quite as steep overall down to the coast.    Great dining in Ponta Delgada is on offer, along with some excellent gardens.   Our next stop is Sao Jorge, so we'll see how that contrasts with this island.  

like a bag of quarters left on a spinning dryer as I roll down a steep dirt hill, the mountain bike’s back-wheel skidding across wet, loose gravel at each touch of the brake. Visibility is limited by the fact that I am, it would appear, in a cloud, a thousand feet above sea level. The slope shows no sign of leveling off; teeth clenched, eyes wide, I careen past two Holstein cows who turn lazily my way, unperturbed by my approach or their perch on what looks like the edge of the world.