Naha, capital city of Okinawa, at night
“The Japanese fought to win - it was a savage, brutal, inhumane, exhausting and dirty business. Our commanders knew that if we were to win and survive, we must be trained realistically for it whether we liked it or not. In the post-war years, the U.S. Marine Corps came in for a great deal of undeserved criticism in my opinion, from well-meaning persons who did not comprehend the magnitude of stress and horror that combat can be. The technology that developed the rifle barrel, the machine gun and high explosive shells has turned war into prolonged, subhuman slaughter. "
― E.B. Sledge, With the Old Breed: At Peleliu and Okinawa
Paul and I came to Okinawa for the "conclusion" of our current visit to Japan---although it might not really be fair to call Okinawa: "Japan." Our tour leader from the prior two weeks probably said it best: "Okinawa is like a whole other country." And in so many ways, he was right.
Some of what attracted us here was that it just sounded cool. Also Okinawa is in the "blue zone"---not a political stance, but a reference to areas where people live very long lives. Finding people 100+ years old isn't all that weird. I knew there were numerous UNESCO World Heritage sites connected to the time when Okinawa was a kingdom--or kingdoms, more correctly. And that there was a tremendous battle here to take the island as a strategic military base for fighting on mainland Japan during World War II. Both Paul and I had fathers with connections to WWII--mine in the Aleutian Islands and Paul's dad in the Po Valley in Italy, so we had special interest. Most Americans have seen the movie Hacksaw Ridge which is more about Desmond Doss (buried in the Chattanooga Military Cemetery for anyone interested in paying respects to a conscientious objector hero) than about the battle for Okinawa per se, but does lend some perspective, if you've seen that movie. Ultimately, the fierceness of Japanese and Okinawan forces were a component of the decision to use the atomic bomb in Hiroshima and Nagasaki--two cities we visited just the week before arriving here. Questions like: What could possibly have justified dropping such unheard of destructive bombs on military targets when it assured severe civilian collateral casualties and widespread devastation to noncombatants? Well, a visit here will help you understand some of the thinking of US Military during World War II----justified or not.
We spent most of our time with Yumiko, a tour guide who took us to these sites and added some cultural information as well.
Yumiko, a native Okinawan who studied communications in Alabama and Michigan, was our guide. She introduced us to many Okinawan sites-- and to mango and kiwi gelato. If you want to see the WWII sites, think seriously about hiring a guide and driver as many of these sites cannot be reached by public transportation and even with GOOGLEMAPS, you won't get there in a rental vehicle.
The histories of Japan, Okinawa and the entire Pacific region are crucially intertwined; therefore the review of this fascinating chain of islands is crucial to understanding all of East Asia. Few people can point to Okinawa on a map, yet this tiny island sitting between China and Japan is a hub for international affairs. The island was, and continues to be, one of the most crucial Asian nerve centers in all U.S. strategic defense.
Okinawa on the center right of this map is situated about 600 miles off the coast of Japan. It is positioned in a place conducive to trade with China, Taiwan, Indonesia and Korea as well as other Pacific islands, many of whom were independent nations in the past.
Although once part of the Eurasian continent, the Ryukyu islands have existed for at least 400,000 years, well before the advent of modern humans. We cannot be certain who first set foot on them. The latest archeological research suggests that the earliest inhabitants were of Indonesian descent, but native people will tell you they are a mix of regional ethnicity. (The Japanese are most often descendants of the Chinese, so....)
Prior to the Ryuku Kingdom, there was the Sanzan Period when three separate kingdoms existed in Okinawa. The Northern Kingdom, Hokuzan, was large and had military strength but was not in a good economic position The Central Kingdom, Chuzan, was economically doing very well and had excellent ports. The Southern Nazan Kingdom had good trade relations but crippling internal conflicts. These three kingdoms were actually very geographically close and located predominantly in the central and southern sections of present day Okinawa. The three kingdoms were unified by Shō Hashi--not without bloodshed and dirty tricks though. Sho first took power in Chūzan around 1407, then conquered Hokuzan in 1416, and finally Nanzan in 1429 to establish the single Ryuku Kingdom. The Ryukyu Kingdom was an independent kingdom of Ryuky Islands (modern-day Okinaway) from 1429 to 1879, serving as a vital hub of diplomacy. It became wealthy through maritime trade before being conquered by the Japanese Satsuma clan in 1609. The kingdom was fully annexed by Japan in 1879, becoming Okinawa Prefecture. After WWII, Okinawa was a US protectorate until returned to Japan in 1972.
Most of the UNESCO sites revolve around the Sho dynasty era and/or the period when there were three kings who eventually united.
The main attraction, UNESCO-wise, is the Shuri Castle. This is the main gate of several inside the complex.
Shuri Castle was the seat of power of the Sho dynasty and, being mostly wood, has been rebuilt five times, including after WWII and most recently in 2019 when it was burned down in an alleged electrical fire---still under investigation.
This is the oldest prayer area---the Okinawans practice a form of Shinto but it is more driven by ancestor worship than the mainland Japanese form. They call areas specifically designed for prayer UTAKI. This one was built in the 16th century is made of stone and survived the fires.
The castle complex is quite large with multiple entry gates going uphill. These were usually enclosed in smaller courtyard areas so that enemies could be trapped into a limited space if they appeared. Okinawa was also plagued by pirates, mostly from Japan (per our guide.)
This utaki is directly outside the main hall of Shuri (main hall currently under reconstruction) and is where the king/queen practiced prayers and has an area behind it for the high priestesses to offer special prayers for the kingdom. (No XY chromosomal types allowed.) The tree on top is considered sacred and is several hundred years old.
Replica of the Bridge of Nations bell that once hung here at Shuri Castle and symbolized cooperation between countries. The original bell was forged in the 15th century. This is a replica. The original was heisted after the fall of the castle in 1945 and now hangs outside the United Nations Building in New York City.
A look at the reconstruction work going on at Shuri Castle. They just took the tenting material they were building under off last week, so even though we did not see the completed replica, we did get a glance at the work ongoing.
A glance at what it looked like before the fire.
Obviously, this was a complete loss in 2019.
More views of the large Shuri complex built on a hill above Naha.
Architectural feature. They placed "lion dogs" to ward off evil spirits.
Paul and I took a walk around the neighborhood near our hotel and noticed the lion dog is still popular.
This guy has a job---warding off evil!
View of Naha from Shuri Castle. Before the build up of the modern city, palace guards would have had a good view of the coastline for incoming ships.
We also visited the Udun Palace very near Shuri Castle where visiting dignitaries were housed. It also sometimes served as a summer destination for the royal family of Sho.
The guest house/summer house.
In addition to the Castle and Udun Palace, there is a royal tomb nearby housing the king and queen, their children, and in the middle, a grave believed to be a shaman who saved a princess's life. Outside this tomb is the tomb of a concubine.
Tamudun Royal Masoleum
The last UNESCO heritage site we visited on this day was Nagagusuku-jo Site . It is a well-preserved example of a Ryuku castle known for its six courtyards, stone masonry, and iconic curved walls. Built in the 15th century, it is one of Japan's famous castles and a significant cultural site on the island. Built by Lord Gosamaru, a key ruler prior to unification, the castle was designed for defense and has been central to Okinawan history, including its role during the Ryukyu Kingdom. It's ruler, however, committed hari kari when he realized the King was betraying him. Lots of sad tales and hari kari in Okinawa for sure.
Examples of the masonry
Grounds of the castle
Curvilinear walls seen on the left are characteristic of this site. You'll see military jet in the sky above it.
One thing we noticed about this masonry which started in the 9th century is that it was very similar to masonry we saw in sites very far away from here---notably Chaco Canyon in New Mexico and Great Zimbabwe. These were built at about the same time as Nagagusuku. We showed pictures to our guide who was surprised to see the similarity.
Closer look at greater than a century old structure.
At the castle site was a coffee shop. Paul ordered a "pour over."
I think Paul MIGHT have enjoyed the coffee as much as the castle?
It was a long day and we didn't manage to hit all nine UNESCO world heritage sites, but we made a run at it! We did learn a lot about the Ryuku Kingdom and Okinawan history.
Our second and third days on Okinawa were spent tracing the battle of WWII chronologically starting at the US military landing site and ending at the Peace Memorial. Lots of steps and stops but a good insight into the Japanese/Okinawan forces, US military and last, but not least, civilian issues during the war.
I will give a history as briefly as possible, then expand a bit with photos. This description in no way tells the story, but does give you a basic outline of what happened---the tragedies of which defy words.
The Battle of Okinawa was largest amphibious assault of the Pacific War, fought from April to June 1945 . It pitted U.S. Army, Navy and Marine Corps forces against the Imperial Japanese Army and Navy for control of the island, a strategically vital outpost for a planned invasion of mainland Japan. On April 1, coincidentally both April Fools Day and Easter Sunday, U.S. troops landed on the Hagushi beaches with surprisingly little resistance. The Japanese had adopted a new strategy of attrition, opting to defend from an elaborate network of fortified caves and ridges inland rather than fighting on the beaches. We read a book called: The Battle of Okinawa: A Captivating Guide to the Fierce WWII Fight That Paved the Way for the End of the War in the Pacific which summarized the battle and although short, covers the buildup on both sides. In this book, it is stated that the US Navy made numerous feints to throw the Japanese forces off as to where they would land. From the time of landing, both military forces fought brutally over a series of ridges....One US commander calling the battle "one damned ridge after another." As U.S. forces moved south toward the Japanese military command posts, they were met with fierce resistance from the entrenched Japanese defenders who emerged from an elaborate series of caves and tunnels, mostly under the cover of night along the Shuri Line. The battle evolved into a punishing series of assaults against heavily fortified positions (like Kakazu and Hacksaw Ridges and Wana Draw), often fought in torrential rain and mud. After 9 weeks of brutal fighting, U.S. forces broke through the main Japanese defenses with the capture of Shuri Castle on May 29. Japanese troops and conscripted civilians then made a final stand on the southern coast of the island. Still,from that point, it took nearly another month to end the battle. The battle officially ended on June 22, after the Japanese commander, General Mitsuru Ushijima and the naval commander, General Minoru Ota, committed ritual suicide along with literally thousands of soldiers. Pockets of resistance continued, but the island was declared secure and the Japanese forces released civilians forced into service (notably many junior and high school students serving in the army or as nurses or other aids to the military) on June 19, 1945.
The battle was exceptionally bloody for all involved. American casualties were over 49,000, with more than 12,000 killed. Kamikaze attacks on supporting naval ships exacted its toll. Japanese military deaths numbered over 100,000, and up to 150,000 Okinawan civilians (about one in every four inhabitants) were killed or died by suicide, often after being indoctrinated with propaganda that Americans would torture them by splitting their bodies in half or raping the women. In addition to the Japanese high ranking officer losses, General Simon Bolivar Buckner from the US was killed while surveilling troops from a rocky outpost at the south of the island near the end of the battle. He was struck by debris resulting from Japanese fire and died rapidly on the spot.
The high cost of taking Okinawa—the intense resistance, massive casualties, and widespread kamikaze attacks—deeply impacted American military planners. The battle provided a sobering preview of the potential devastation and loss of life that would occur during an invasion of the Japanese mainland.
Paul standing and looking out at the US forces landing point which is now absorbed by the modern cities of Okinawa
At the time of the landing in 1945, this area was mostly farmland. About 180,000 soldiers landed on this beach. The total military support to take this island on land and sea (sea support involving US, Britian, Canada, Australia and New Zealand ) was approximately 1 million people. This bay was filled with ships.
There were some efforts to evacuate Okinawan civilians prior to the battle, but in general, they were subjected to either the horrors of war and/or hiding, such as in this cave. At times US troops would hear noises inside caves and throw grenades or flame inside. In this particular cave, there were > 100 deaths with many children. Numerous stories exist of women exiting caves with crying babies and coming back alone.
There are statues all around this particular cave in honor of the children who died there.
We visited numerous caves, many of them quite large where civilians went into hiding. One cave visited with helmets and flashlights (and not amenable to photography) served as a hospital. Soldiers thought to be hopeless cases were placed in the darkest recesses of this cave to meet their fate. When the Japanese Army abandoned that cave as American forces encroached, they left behind approximately 150 men who were unable to walk-- 13 of which survived. Forty-four villagers of fifty who took refuge there also survived. Fortunately, that cave was massive and had ventilation and water running through it.
Military cave entrance on Kakazu Ridge. Japanese military hid here in the daytime and attacked mostly at night.
The military cave entrances for the Japanese were usually well-disguised.
The top of Hacksaw Ridge now contains a large cemetery but graves are not related to the war.
Needle rock at the top of Hacksaw Ridge was the point where US military scaled the ridge and where Desmond Doss kept rescuing people during that battle memorialized in the film.
Looking down from the ridges toward the landing site. This gives meaning to the term "uphill battle." Japanese soldiers were already entrenched in the caves and tunnels within and surrounding these ridges, at the Wana Draw (a low lying creek area near the castle) and Shuri Castle. When Allied Forces neared Shuri Castle, Japanese high command withdrew to the South to an elaborately constructed bunker built for that purpose.
This is the meeting room for the Japanese brass in the bunker where General Ota of the Navy committed hari kari. His final letter praised the Okinawan people for bravery and asked for special consideration for them from the Japanese emperor. Most of the soldiers in this bunker committed suicide along with their leaders---about 4000 people were literally crammed and trapped in this underground space.
Fortification of the limestone bunker with wood and concrete.
Telegraph station inside the bunker.
This was very deep underground as you can see Paul and our tour guide much further down and yet, still not at the bottom.
The South End of the Island. Many people ran into the water at the very end to escape capture by US forces.
The peace memorial at the end of the island contains headstones upon which the names of everyone they are aware of who died in Okinawa are inscribed so they "will never be forgotten." This includes not only Japanese, Okinawan, and conscripted Southeast Asian casualties, but the names of all the Allies. Occasionally, remains of someone else who died in battle in 1945 will be found in Okinawa. The last body to be found in June 2025 was a British soldier identified by DNA. His body was offered to the family but there is a mausoleum for anyone who wishes to have their remains left there. They have this particular stone in this massive memorial cemetery to write the names of person still being discovered, as these names were initially inscribed in stone in alphabetical order. Simon Bolivar Buckner, Jr.,
the general who died on Okinawa and was described as a brilliant military strategist has his name inscribed without fanfare in alphabetical order along with his troops.
There were so many military and civilian tragedies and I don't want this blog to be a complete "downer" but I feel like I have to mention one in particular which is commemorated in a museum. The Himeyuri Peace Museum is dedicated to the Himeyuri Student Corps, who were female students mobilized during the battle of Okinawa. In March 1945, 222 students and 18 teachers from the Okinawa Women's Normal School and the First Prefectural Girls' High School were mobilized to serve in the Haebaru Army Field Hospital. The museum features personal belongings, diaries, photographs, and life-size models to tell their story and convey the tragedy of their stories. Testimonies are particularly heartbreaking as there were some survivors who lived to tell their stories.
The museum has a photograph of every girl and gives personal information so it's not anonymous.
Many of the students died while caring for the wounded in underground shelters as the war intensified. Some committed suicide at the very end of the battle as they were terrified of what would happen if they were captured by US Forces.
Flowers left for the girls by modern day visitors to the museum.
A 1945 photo of the girls that were supposed to graduate high school that year. Few survived.
There is a still a major US military presence in Okinawa to this day and military exercises, especially with the presence of and nuclear testing by North Korea, are carried out daily with us as witnesses.
All that said, it was not all doom and gloom on Okinawa which is a favorite tourist spot for Southeast Asians for its lovely beaches. We had some really nice dining experiences including a restaurant that specializes in crab, a local joint serving handmade soba noodles, an Okinawan Waygu restaurant and a very lovely French place deserving of Michelin recognition (except Michelin doesn't come here. ) Most of our time was spent pounding pavement to learn as much as we could in 72 very informative hours.
A welcome cocktail on the 20th floor of the hotel with Naha skyline in the background.
Local soba shop with Yumiko
Okinawan waygu at American Village (yes, that's the name of the town. Lotsa military)
Okinawan craft beer
Goat cheese at Glouton, an amazing French restaurant with a great view.
Salad at Glouton will make you a glutton.
They served a dish using this type of snail. I usually won't touch snail but this was good.
Dessert with "leaves of autumn" cookie.
If you get the chance to go to Okinawa, you will be very impressed. We were! Amazing history, interesting terrain, nice people and good food!
"Eat your vegetables, have a positive outlook, be kind to people, and smile." - Kamada Nakasato, 102-y/o-female fr. Okinawa
Paul's Ponderings: Compared to mainland Japan, Okinawa is definitely "another country" in many ways. Culturally it seems quite similar, but the general vibe is quite different in many ways. We spent three days with a guide and learned a lot about WW2 in particular. Once you see the difference geographically between the landing point and the various ridges, coupled with the caves, you get a real insight into how this all played out and why it was so bloody in terms of casualties. This was truly the last big battle of WW2 between the Japanese and the allied forces and led directly to the use of the bomb on the mainland. War aside, it is also a very ancient civilization that for most of its lifetime was not part of Japan, but influenced by not only Japan, but Korea and China, plus parts of the Phillipines, etc. Weather wise, it was super warm here in late October and felt like East TN in July! Very humid and sunny, with mosquitos and such from time to time, plus a continuing threat of thunderstorms. I had not realized how far off the coast of Japan this island actually was. It was about an hour and 15 minute flight from Fukuoka. If you are looking for insight into the terminal stage of WW2, this is well worth a visit. If you'd like to see how a culture similar to Japan, but also dissimilar evolved, it's also well worth a visit. Note that we did not really explore the northern part of the island, but we did pay a visit to near the "American village" one night for some great steak. The largest percentage of US military forces in Japan are located near Naha, so, no surprise, there is quite a lot to cater to these thousands of personnel....very reminiscent of a tiny slice of Las Vegas or maye Miami! All in all, a great trip.
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