“Remind me that the most fertile lands were built by the fires of volcanoes.”
― Andrea Gibson, The Madness Vase
On the second day of the New Year 2020, we set out to explore the "malpais." Literally it means bad country, and the Americanized version would be badlands. The Timanfaya National Park is located on this island and has a visitor center and bus ride of about 6 miles through the moonlike terrain, but you cannot hike in the park without a prior arrangement with park rangers which is also apparently quite costly to arrange. Unfortunately, we didn't know that in advance. This hike arranged by Explore was in a "natural park" which skirts the border of the Timanfaya and gives you a good look at the deposits of lava.
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| Nothing much grows in this country, but a few lichens. Many are quite colorful. |
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| This is a field of aa--pronounced "ah-ah" Most lava terminology worldwide have names of Hawaiian origin. This is not friendly hiking territory! Sharp spines everywhere. |
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| Our trip companions have traversed a field of aa and are ascending in the volcanic ash path. |
Lanzarote is a contrasting island of volcanic origin, with largely predominating lava fields. It has a long history of eruptions and is often referred to as the ‘Island of the 1,000 volcanoes’, yet it is actually the least mountainous Canarian Island. The highest mount is the volcano Peñas del Chache near Haria n the northern part of the island, which is 2,198 ft (670 metres) above sea level. Its interior is reminiscent of a lunar landscape, covered with massifs and plains, dotted with small craters and cones and amorphous eruptive rock formations.
Of all the islands in the archipelago, Lanzarote is the most dominated by its dormant volcanic power. The amazing landscape that we see today is partly a result of the massive Timanfaya eruptions between 1730 and 1736 – the longest lasting and most powerful periods of volcanic activity ever known here. Numerous cities are buried under these lava fields.
Two thirds of the island, including almost the whole southern part, were devastated creating a blackened, lifeless malpaís of cinders, ash and lava. Naturally, the surface area of the island increased as a result of lava flows running into the sea.
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| A caldera we hiked around on our introduction to volcanoes of Lanzarote. This is part of the 1730-6 eruption area. |
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| Vent |
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| These large vents are called "hornitos" Note the colors amongst the lichen and the volcanic peaks behind the pirate. |
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| A bleak but often beautiful landscape |
This was quite a long walk and a bit tiring, as we had to be very careful hiking amongst either spines or on volcanic ash that shifted below our feet. Overall, we believe we walked about 16km or 10 miles and we were ready to stop when we got to the little bar in Mancha Blanca.
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| The location of our journey's end today. We enjoyed a "Tropical," the local beer at a small bar favored by the local people. |
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| Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Los Dolores, Tinajo |
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| Interior view. A quiet place to say a prayer for the health of friends. |
Our guide, Judith, told us that we would walk to a pretty church at the end of our walk on January 2nd. She also said (think Spanish accent), "And don't worry, because anywhere in Spain there is a church, there is a bar next door. " We have noted that to be true in towns of any size whatsoever so far!
This pretty little church was built in the 1800s and is a lovely display of typical Canarian architecture--white washed building with implanted volcanic stone. They certainly built with what they had available. It is at this church that the annual fiesta is held to honor the Virgin who stopped the flow of lava before it consumed the village. We saw some pictures and even though the town is something of a wide spot in the road, they seem to throw quite a party!
From here, we were treated to a visit to a wine bodega, Bodega Rubicon, to see the old manor it was built in and to taste their varieties of white, rose, and red wines.
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| The wine press. We are told the feet are also still used at times. This concrete surface empties into a concrete vat below. |
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| The tasting room |
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| Lanzarote serves up Malvasia, Liston Negro and Liston Blanco and a variety of other grapes not very popular in other parts of the world. |
The winery was quite beautiful, built in an old Spanish style manor house. We enjoyed all the wines we tasted. I especially enjoyed their white wine called Amalia, but the reds were good too. We did not try the sweet wines and they had several.
Last night, we went to eat at a lovely tapas restaurant, Restaurante Casa Felix. This family restaurant has been here for over 30 years and they still seem excited to be serving customers. Recommended should you find yourself in Costa Teguise.
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| Tapas served on a lazy Susan so everyone can dig in! |
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Felix, seen with this arms up in the photo, has been dishing up Spanish small plates for over 30 years.
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Today, we had a "free day" on our hiking tour and decided to go to the 8th Canary Island. When we started the trip, we thought there were only seven. But Isla Graciosa gained its independence in 2018.
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| The harbor of Isla Graciosa. The turquoise waters are eye-defying. |
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| You cross the gulf of El Rio to get there from Lanzarote seen rising on the left. |
Spain’s General Commission of the Autonomous of the Senate has agreed that the tiny rock outcrop, home to no paved roads and just 721 residents, can become the eighth official Canary Island, earning itself its own “legal personality”. Should you decide to visit this 11 square mile nugget of Spain, here's the skinny:
1. The beaches are deserted. Some are quite volcanic and not very welcoming, but there are also white sandy ones said to be some of the best in Spain.
2. You can't bring a car and all roads are unpaved. There are however 4X4s for hire to take you around the island.
3. You can only reach it by sea on ferries from the tiny Lanzarote city of Orzola.
4. It is said to have been the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's treasure island.
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| Paul and I saw this little village of Pedro Barba from the port city of Caleta de Sebo...and thought we should walk there. |
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| Most of the path was packed sand, well marked and easy to navigate. Eventually we had to skirt the path along lava for about 1/2 mile which wasn't the most fun, but we made it. The town of Pedro Barba has about 10 houses, no store, no restaurants, no toilets, and everyone appeared to have deserted their homes for the winter! |
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| The streets of Puerto de Caleta de Sebo |
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| Welcome to Isla Graciosa. They haven't managed to make it clear they are no longer part of Lanzarote. It's a beautiful unspoilt island with few inhabitants. Most tourist come to hike or cycle and don't stay overnight. |
Tonight we ate in what is considered "the best restaurant in the Canaries" (by some) , El Navarro in Costa Teguise. It is a VERY SMALL space, only about 8 tables.
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| Small but mighty. In the restrooms, they have original Manrique paintings |
The food was delicious and copious. In fact, we took most of it away and I plan to make Paul an amazing chivito sandwich at the last hike on Sunday.
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| Spinach ravioli with shrimp |
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| Salad. Yum! |
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| Basque cheesecake, Definitely need to be averaging 10-12 miles a day to dig into this one! |
Yesterday was a great lesson in lava and Lanzarote topography and geography. Today was a walk on a desert island surrounded by amazing blue water. It's been a great two days.
" If you ever drop your keys into a river of molten lava, let 'em go, because man, they're gone." -------------------------Jack Handy .
Paul's Ponderings: These two days could not have been more different. We had a long hiking day on the first of the two....a lot longer than expected, but great volcanic scenery topped off with a winery visit. On the second, we went to a island with no paved roads and hiked to a deserted village (on our own). It has been windy and a combination of warm and cool both days. As noted above, this encapsulates Lanzarote in all its finery over the past couple of days.
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| Everyone looks better in front of the deep blue sea! |
