Friday, January 26, 2018

January 26, 2018: Caldera de Taburiente National Park

The caldera is about 10 km across, and in places the walls tower 2000 m over the caldera floor. 
---------Wikipedia


I have been many places on this planet, but the hike starting at the top of this volcanoes rim and into the crater has few matches!
Around 2 million years ago, the Atlantic oceanic floor and geologic forces made a plan to make my day! We spent today hiking from a portion of the original rim of the volcano into the crater itself. This place is rugged and beautiful and the last stronghold of the local berber (Guanches) tribe. The Spanish were not able to get to them, so they lured the leader out under the pretense of peace talks. OF course, they ambushed the local tribes and took the leader into slavery. :(

Today, a Catalonian Spaniard led 11 people peppered by UK residents and 5 Americans down into the floor of the volcano. (For those who wonder, no its not active.)


One of our happy hikers, Ruth, sits in the foreground to give you an idea of the size and majesty of this caldera.
The hike was 1000 meters downhill with some uphill and after arriving about halfway down, predominantly followed the riverbed of the largest river in the Canaries. Most of the Canaries have NO naturally occuring fresh water and depend on desalination.  In the south-west the caldera opens to the sea, through a riverbed known as
As rivers go, it's hardly mighty. But it's the biggest one in the Canary Islands!
Barranco de las Angustias.We followed the river the second half of the day, traversing about 9-10 miles over a 5 hour hike. The river became smaller and smaller as we headed toward our final destination, meandering rivulets that we could easily walk right in the middle of.


Eventually we ended up in a series of slot canyons that were quite beautiful if challenging to hike at times.
Paul in a slot canyon...which is better than a slot machine!!


Interestingly when it rains a lot, they shut these trails down for ten days, because the erosion is so bad, hikers have been killed during mudslides. They inspect all routes before reopening. Also, there is a small interpretive center about halfway up or down and someone actually lives there for the park service. Apparently each ranger spends about 2 weeks there, then is off for two weeks. 

Overall, this was a long but highly enjoyable day. There were strenuous sections, but none lasted very long and the predominantly reason for the moderate hiker rating was length. I would do it again in a New York minute!

May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.
Edward Abbey

Paul's Ponderings:   What a great day out hiking!   This was a spectacular long downhill trek with perfect weather and stunning scenery all around on a continuous basis.   We also had the bonus of hiking with Maxi, our guide last year on La Gomera, since our local guide Bert was ill (but who is also a great guide too).   

The cloud forest formations rolling over the hills were spectacular and we knew that by the local taxi drivers getting out and taking photos.   

The last part of the trek was along a river bed that ended up with a bit of rock climbing at the end, albeit rock climbing for 50-60 year old persons!    

La Palma is the most rocky and steep of the Canaries, so it has been a real treat to hike here.   Los Lllanos (pronounced Yanos) has been our base and is a lovely town of about 20000 persons on the dry side of the island.   We had another great dinner here with local wine to finish out the day, which was very welcome after a long day out on the hillside.  Bueno....




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