Saturday, January 27, 2018

January 27, 2018 Blown Away to Tazacorte


Today the big plan was to go back to the National Park to a very popular launch area called Cumbrecitas and hike to a peak called Pico Bejanado at 6094 feet. Did we do it? Well, we tried. Unfortunately, as we got closer and closer to the starting point, a winter mix started to strike the windows of our cab and we saw the wind picking up with the altitude. We had read some wind warnings starting a few days ago for La Palma, but hadn't seen much evidence of bad winds. That was about to change. When we got to the National Park kiosk, they told us the hike had a "yellow" warning. We got to the parking lot and saw trees bending and people barely able to walk covering their eyes and face from debris blowing about. We actually exited the cab and after the hiking group had a powwow we decided that even if we could do this hike, we'd probably all hate it and curse incessantly.  About the time we decided to pack it in and try for something a bit tamer, the park ranger came up and closed the park. He said winds at the top of the peak were 120 mph. We were definitely standing in gusts of 40-60 mph having a "discussion." I wondered what happened to those climbers who had already started up.   We decided to go elsewhere but were still faced with a downed tree in the road. Hairy. Glad we didn't go!

Typical directional sign along the way -- today we first hiked to Time (Tea-may)


Instead we hiked from a town called Tirajafe through the rural countryside and down to the black sand beach at Tazacorte. It was balmy by comparison. Interesting what a few miles and about 1000 feet of altitude can do.

View toward the port
We didn't really visit the city of Tirajafe, but we started walking on rural roads past small farms and houses. There were many beautiful flowers including the almond trees and various lovely ones planted in yards. Despite the fact that this entire island is covered in banana plants, we hadn't walked past a single one until today  We marched our way back to Mirador de Time, the place we had lovely views a few days before. They were still great! And we had a lovely spot for our picnic lunch. We nearly always do a picnic eating outside and enjoying the weather.  The restaurant at the viewpoint was fine with our picnic as long as we ordered drinks from them. And they sold some ice cream and cake too!

A view toward Porto de Tazacorte -- yes we hiked down there and that's a black sand beach
From here, we proceeded the 4km downhill to the port of Tazacorte which has a nice black sand beach.
Tazacorte from about 700 meters up
Tazacorte is a town of about 5000 people whose economy is principally bananas with a smattering of tourism and fishing. It dates back into the late 1400s as one of the first ports used by the Spanish.

One of hundreds of acres of banana plants on the island, this time on the hike down

Although it wasn't swimming weather for me, a number of brave souls were sunning and recreating on the beach.

The total hike was about 9km with 700 meters up and down. It beat freezing rain and howling wind by a country mile! 
Cheers to a good hike
We returned to Los Llanos by bus and had a lovely dinner with the hiking group, our last one together at a German restaurant.

It's been a long but pleasurable week of hiking about 50 miles,mostly in mountains and meeting some great folks from the UK, Spain and Holland and also walking with friends from Tennessee.  We are very fortunate to be here.
Maybe a little rest wouldn't hurt us?
“Hiking is a bit like life:
The journey only requires you to put one foot in front of the other…again and again and again.
And if you allow yourself the opportunity to be present throughout the entirety of the trek,
you will witness beauty every step of the way,
not just at the summit”


Paul's Ponderings:   A weird day out....first we were going to do a peak hike, only to be delayed by 120 mph winds up top and a closed warning from the ranger.   Then, barely 3-4 miles away, it's sunny and 85 degrees and a lovely steep hike down to a port.   All part of the fun in the Canaries.   

The alternative hike was not too shabby, albeit steep down, to be rewarded with cold beer.   After a bit of rest, it was off to a German run restaurant for dinner, then back to pack, as our "formal" hiking is done!   Tomorrow we are off to Santa Cruz de la Palma for a few days, then we fly over to El Hierro.   Regarding the latter, we got some good tips from our hike leader today, so that will be an asset as things move along.   Stay tuned for more about the theoretically more sedentary part of the trip!   

Regarding Los Llanos, it's a really nice place and I could see coming back here to winter sometime.   It's on the dry side of the island and while the nights can be a tad cool, in general it's a nice place with a great town of about 20,000 persons that offers a lot to the traveler or temporary resident.  

Onward.....


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