Thames Path: Cullham to Reading

 

The non-tidal Thames grows ever wider as we sojourn its banks

“There is no river in the world to be compared for majesty and the witchery of association, to the Thames; it impresses even the unreading and unimaginative watcher with a solemnity which he cannot account for, as it rolls under his feet and swirls past the buttresses of its many bridges; he may think, as he experiences the unusual effect, that it is the multiplicity of buildings which line its banks, or the crowd of sea-craft which floats upon its surface, or its own extensive spread. In reality he feels, although he cannot explain it, the countless memories which hang for ever like a spiritual fog over its rushing current.

("The Phantom Model")”
― Hume Nisbet, Gaslit Nightmares: Stories by Robert W. Chambers, Charles Dickens, Richard Marsh, and Others

We took a very nice rest day after a week of walking and visited Oxford University. That would be an entire blog on its own, with all the history and famous figures (not to mention Harry Potter--oh wait-- I just did!), and I will omit any other mention of this other than seeing the bar where William Jefferson Clinton did NOT inhale marijuana. If you get to Oxford, allow yourself at least one day if not two to see the campus and the many colleges and historical sites. 

Now, on to the walk.  I will cover various features from Culham to Reading.

We returned to Culham to start where we left off and toward Clifton Hampden, named for Oliver Cromwell's cousin who owned a manor there. 

The Clifton Lock keepers cottage. Red brick which is a standout since most are stone. Also a standout, is that this lock keeper sold ice cream. I wish I had a photo of the smile on Paul's face when ice cream was offered. 

Clifton Bridge, also red brick and lovely. Paul and I from here walked through many many meadows toward Reading. A nature trust appears to own most of the land along the Thames as wildlife preserves, although there are also a considerable number of private properties that allow a narrow band of easement for which we were very grateful. In areas where owners did not allow such things, there were often long detours around hamlets and walks on roads, some major thoroughfares. 

From here we wandered past Dorchester on Thames which we could see less than a mile from the path. In retrospect, I wish we had wandered into the tiny village as it was quite historical and once a Roman garrison with an amphitheater. We saw no evidence of that, but what was apparent was a large church in a small hamlet.  Dorchester Abbey mostly survived the wrath of Henry VIII. Also here Bishop Birinius in the 7th century converted the Saxon king, Cynegils to Christianity. He made an alliance with already Christian King Oswald of Northumbria and essentially paved the way for Britain to become the Christian nation that resulted thereafter as they "overcame" pagan Mercians. 

Then we were off the the Day Lock and just beyond it, the Wittenham Clumps--a pair of chalk hills that probably wouldn't stand out so much if they weren't planted on an area of extreme flatness. 

Lock keeper's cottage at Day's Lock 

 A standout just past the bridge at Day's Lock: Wittenham Clumps--basically, a hillock.

Onward we marched to Shillingford, where we had to walk on the road for a very hot distance. I can't say much to recommend this small town except that we had a very nice and cool lunch at the Shillingford Bridge Hotel. 

Shillingford Bridge Hotel. A nice respite on a very hot day. Try the Croque Monsieur

During the walk, we passed a way from Benson, an RAF Base, and although we never saw it on the path, we often saw helicopters and airplanes overhead. We eventually reached Wallingford which is a nice little town with tons of history. There is a castle (or remains thereof) built by the Normans in the 12th century. And lots of historic churches, cafes, and a very amazing Waitrose where we secured lunch one day.  

We didn't see Benson, but we did see Benson Lock where the lock keeper has a beautiful garden. 

From Wallingford to Pangbourne, there is mostly walking along the river through meadows and encountering only the twin towns of Goring and Streatley. During the Ice Age, the Thames River was forced through the valley by glaciers to follow its current course.  

Mouldsford double-arched railway viaduct: Paul and I stopped underneath for a water break on a hot day.

Due to some construction detours, Paul and I missed two locks but we did get a ride upriver on a ferry for about a quarter of a mile which was very enjoyable. The Thames path crosses the river many times, and this was our only option. We didn't mind not walking a short distance on a 12 mile walking day!

Another thing we encountered that was unique was a walk UPHILL (the back down to the river). This has been almost all either flat or minor up/down for a few feet, but this one was for real. 

Wallingford Bridge. 

Spectator on the Thames Path

When we reached Pangbourne, we walked along a paved road to the rail station where we were treated (not) to a dose of the problems we read about in the paper regarding Great Western Railway: cancelled trains. Since we were > 20 miles from Oxford, it presented quite an issue, but we eventually were able to secure a long bus ride back. I really enjoyed the ride, even though it wasn't planned, as it gave an interesting view of the area we didn't get on ground level and walking speed. But it was still frustrating and I would warn anyone following in our path to make sure there are at least two ways to travel if you are using a city as a "home base." 

Pangbourne to Reading was also a series of meadows and small villages until just before Reading proper. 

It keeps getting wider!

A church claiming Lewis Carroll preached there.

Mapledurham Lock. Last one before Reading

Rowing is massively popular, especially in this area between Oxford and Reading. There are many boathouses and we saw rowing teams of many sizes and compositions come by. 

Rowers need somewhere to leave their shoes!

The last village of note before Reading was Purley-on-Thames where we made a big detour on the river to escape the GWR train tracks. This appears to be a bedroom community for Reading.

Farming is still practiced in Purley and, although the vineyard of the past has apparently gone, arable farming, dairy and livestock farming still exist in the parish. Purley today is a village of more than 1,600 households and is still growing.  There is no doctor’s surgery, no pub, no police station, no cash dispenser/ATM, no petrol station and only a limited mobile library service.   The Post Office in Purley on Thames having closed a local voluntary group has organised a post office service to take place on Monday afternoons (other than Bank Holidays) between 2.15 and 4.15 pm in the small Barn at Goosecroft Recreation Ground. 

From here it was a flat walk into Reading amongst ducks, several types of geese, swans, marsh hens, and narrowboats on the river.  Tired feet beneath us, we were ready for our evenings rest at the Ibis City Center!

“The Thames here had a vastly different character to the wide, muddy tyrant that seethed through London. It was graceful and deft and remarkably light of heart. It skipped over stones and skimmed its banks, water so clear that one could see the reeds swaying deep down on her narrow bed. The river here was a she, he'd decided. For all its sunlit transparency, there were certain spots in which it was suddenly unfathomable.”
― Kate Morton, The Clockmaker's Daughter

Paul's Ponderings:  A couple of very warm and somewhat long days of hiking along the path.    Due to failures of the GWR trains, we spent quite a bit of time on buses moving around, but it all worked out.   We are now over 1/2 way through the path and pretty much no rain, which is great.   Lots of good food in the evening after all these long days out -- and long means it gets dark at 10 pm here.    Once we get past Reading, our transport issues should lessen quite a bit    For now, our walk continues and we are moving into cooler weather, which is great.