The Thames Path: Cricklade to Lechlade

 

A look back at Cricklade, the first town we stayed in on the Thames Path

Compared with other major rivers of the world, the Thames is very small. It has a total length of just 213 miles (344 kilometers). In contrast, the Mississippi River is 2,347 miles (3,780 kilometers) long and the Nile river, the world's longest river, is 4,130 miles (6,650 kilometers) long. Being such a short river, the Thames does not have as many features as bigger rivers have. It is slow and meandering for most of its length. At certain points, the river's meanders are so exaggerated that it nearly turns back on itself.

ROB BOWDEN

Today we left the White Hart Inn with 11 miles of trail ahead. And what would it bring us? Scenery? Wildlife? Lots of people? We were headed out to the next substantial town on the Thames, Lechlade. In fact, Lechlade is significantly more substantial than Cricklade and seemed to be a bit more diverse as well probably due to this being the first city on which the Thames become navigable. But enough about cities. What lies between?

Bridges of all sorts cross the Thames, particularly in this section where they don't need to be very long to cover the span. We like to call this part of the Thames the Toddler Thames instead of the Baby Thames.

A beautiful day for a long river walk. 

Swans and ducks abound on the river. 

The Virgin Mary church  in Castle Eaton where we stopped for a break has been on this site since the 12th century. It's still a working congregation and amazingly well-preserved. 

The sanctuary is still intact after 900+ years!!

Not sure when the stained glass was installed but the St.Anne is keeping a lookout. 

I'm not sure what this plaque is commemorating exactly, but apparently something Guinness book worthy took place in  1063

This part of the walk was definitely an experience of the English countryside. We did see a few other walkers, but mostly we saw grass, corn, and cows. Much of the path (which could benefit from some trail maintenance) was a simple track one person wide through pastures and farms headed toward Lechlade. At times the grass was chest-high and occasionally over-our-head high. If you want to know what England is like sans big cities, come here.

As if seeing a nearly 1000 year old church wasn't good enough, Inglesham has St. John the Baptist Church built in the 13th century. The structure isn't in as good of shape as the church in Castle Eaton, but we stopped in the graveyard and looked at the washed out headstones. There are still people being buried in the cemetery. 

St John the Baptist cemetery headstone. 

These were the first boats we saw on the Thames. I think we can now refer to it as Adolescent Thames.

11 miles later. Bitters for the non-bitter hikers.

Overall, this was not a day I would recommend to a serious hiker looking for adventure unless dodging cow patties is how they get their thrills. However, I think I understand what most of England looks like.

The Swan Inn, Lechlade. Our resting place for the night. 

Never did sun more beautifully steep
In his first splendour, valley, rock, or hill;
Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep!
The river glideth at his own sweet will:
Dear God! the very houses seem asleep;
And all that. mighty heart is lying still!

WILLIAM WORDSWORTH

Paul's Ponderings:  A great day out walking....started cool and warmed up.   We ended up with about 12 miles for the day.    There was nowhere to stop and eat other than what we took with us today, given that the Red Lion in Castle Eaton was closed today for lunch.   Mostly it was a day walking along the river and in high grass.  Some of it was "really high grass" as in chest high and with briars and nettles, but we worked it out OK.   Apparently a week ago it was quite wet and this would have been pretty miserable in that situation.    We had a nice dinner in Lechlade tonight and as usual when doing long distance walking, we were pretty worn out after that.    The summary is this part of the path is really rural and mostly fields with cows and alternating between high grass and riverside.   Some of it is well maintained but other parts are a bit of a slog due to the overgrown (but visible) path.   Take water and food if you hike this section.