Thames Path: Eynsham to Oxford

 

Last look back at the Talbot Inn in Eynsham as we continue along the Thames Path

The silver Thames takes some part of this county in its journey to Oxford.

John Aubrey

This was a shorter (8 mile), but much more historical day along the path, starting with our hotel, the Talbot Inn. The family has posted a sign with the lineage of the inn. Due to the Wharf Stream--a tiny creek really originating on the Thames but leading into a smaller waterway- that lead into the area of Swinford for the transport of building stone and agricultural products. The commerce originating at least as early as the 11th century, there is suspicion that there was an inn or public house in this location long before the proven lineage of late 18th century presence of this inn. The current owners, unrelated to the original owners of the 1770s, have been here since the late 1990s. The bedrooms are modern, but the old pub area is decidely historical in appearance. 

 We followed the public footpath back to the Thames Path this morning and originally proceeded to the Kings Lock. 

Lock keeper's cottage at Kings Lock. Many of these appear empty (if anyone needs a job)

We then journeyed along a very long farm/animal/agricultural area for about two or more miles. 

Obligatory photo of the widening Thames 

Open space of the meadow which is part of a massive conservation projects involving open spaces, agriculture and animal husbandry. One of their "brags," (and I was not aware of this) is that whereas confined swine often have their tails removed and teeth filed because they have a tendency to bite each other's tails off, the swine raised in large open spaces do not have these aggressive behaviors. These fields are either fallow and left to their own devices or sporadically home to grazing livestock of various ilks.  

Eventually we reached the Godstow Lock, where we enjoyed liquid refreshments at the Trout Inn and ran into even more history! Just past Godstow Lock are the remains of Godstow Abbey. 

Godstow Abbey, a nunnery established in 1133 by Edith de Launceline, served as both a religious community and a "finishing school" for young ladies of wealthy descent. Edith was a wealthy widow looking for good use of her inherited money.  Henry I of England also lent support.  Henry II gave a lot of concessions to the abbey when he fell in love with a local (non-nun) lady of great beauty, Rosamund Clifford, who bore him (rumored) two sons. Her untimely death prompted further concessions to the abbey.  Faire Rosamund was buried beneath the church alter, but eventually removed due to her impure sexual tendencies and buried in a nearby cemetary. The gravesite has since been lost to posterity and various nearby conflicts. There were ups and downs for this reasonably well-run abbey, but the community survived and even thrived at times until... enter the other Henry...the VIII.  Dr John London, agent for the king tried to persuade the nuns to give up the property but they resisted. Even the dastardly Oliver Cromwell tried to support the nunnery, but Henry VIII was having none of it and in his suppression scheme, closed the abbey in 1539. Dr. John London made the abbey thereafter his private home. It's actually quite large, so I hope it was drafty! The abbess in concession arranged by Cromwell received 50 pounds a year as a pension. Who knows what happened to the rest of the residents? Obviously, the ruin still stands and has been many things, but never a religious building in the interim period. 

Full frontal on the Godstow  Abbey with cows to the left. 

Godstow Lock Keeper's Cottage

Very frightening sign regarding security at Godstow Locks

 From here, we were only about 3 miles into Oxford. The path which had been mostly empty to this point filled up with walkers, dogs, bikers and runners all the way to Oxford. Our last completely serene view was cows having a sip along the river. 

Ordinarily I might not include such a photo, but Paul's guidebook literally has a diagram of cows drinking water in exactly this spot. 

One thing that made me go, "Duh!" was the naming of the towns along the river: This is the order in which we encountered these hamlets and they literally are a guide to how deep and difficult a crossing would be: Duxford (duck crossing); Shifford (sheep); Swinford (swine crossing) and Oxford ( ox or bovine crossing). Now I get it! 

We are now for five nights at a lovely (and air-conditioned boutique) hotel that is a "splurge" for this trip called Burlington House. It is run by Nez who sees to every detail! He recommended a nearby restaurant, Pompette (means "tipsy" in French) and it is a very tasty French bistro. It's a Michelin bib gourmand as well!

Burlington House in North Oxford, a quiet neighborhood and cheap quick bus ride to city center.

We were happy to have a slightly lighter walking day at 8 miles and look forward to a longer 12 mile journey tomorrow. 

The Thames was all gold. God it was beautiful, so fine that I began working a frenzy, following the sun and its reflections on the water.

Claude Monet

Paul's Ponderings:   Another nice day out but a lot shorter walk, about eight miles, from Eynsham Lock to Oxford.    We arrived in time for a late lunch and then went to our lovely hotel at Burlington House to be welcomed by the owner Nes.    We then had a nice dinner at Pompette and otherwise had a slow day as we prepare for another twelve mile hike tomorrow.  Prior to that, we are already 25% of the way into the entire length of the hike.    The weather is still quite warm and is expected to get warmer over the next few days but we are managing pretty nicely.   Another day or two and we'll have a break for a day before we forge ahead.